Method of making shoes.



A. BATES.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

uruoumn FILED snmna, 1901.

Patented Dec. 15, 1914.

VWT/VESSES'.

UNITED STATES PATENT oFmoE.

ARTHUR BATES, 0] LEICESTER, ENGLAND, ASSIGNOB TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERYCOMPANY, 01 PATEBSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 15, 1914.

Application filed September 3, 1907. Serial No. 891,089.

ings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to the manufacture of boots. and shoes andparticularly to a method of making shoes having outturned uppers. Insuch shoes, which are called stitch down shoes or veldtschoen, theoutturned flange of the upper lies upon and is secured to the upper faceof the projecting edge portion of the sole.

In accordance with this invention a stitch down shoe is made byassembling upon a last or form an upper and a sole which is larger thanthe bottom of the last so that it projects beyond the sides of the last.The upper is pulled over the last or otherwise manipulated as may benecessary or desirable to cause it to fit to the last, during whichoperation it may conveniently be drawn over the edge of the sole. Thenwhile the upper is still held under pulling or other tension produced inthe overworking operation it is retracted or drawn back from theposition to which its edge was pulled, to produce the slack or fullnessthat will be required to allow the upper to fit into the angle formed bythe side of the last and the projecting edge of the sole. The slack orfullness for this purpose may, however, be obtained by any appropriatemanipulation of the stock. Advantageously a measured amount of slack orfullness is produced and this will preferably be obtained by forcing theupper into the said angle where it may be caused to assume approximatelythe position against the side of the last and upon the upper face of theprojecting portion of the sole which it will occupy in the finishedshoe, or as it may be expressed, the upper is made to line the angle orlay as a covering over the inner face of the angle between the side ofthe last and the projecting portion of the sole. This has the advantagealso of bending or initially forming the upper to the shape it willfinally occupy. After the slack or fullness which Wlll be required isobtained the upper will be fastened to secure it in its proper positionor adjustment. This may be advantageously effected by driving tacksthrough the upper into the edge of the sole but can also be done bysewing through the upper and the margin of the sole. The operation ofpulling the upper, pressing it into or otherwise substantially liningthe angle to obtain the fullness required and fastening the upper to thesole may and preferably Wlll be performed step by step on successiveportions of the upper progressively until the upper has been lasted andtacked all the way around.

If the upper is to be tacked to the edge of the sole there is a seriousproblem involved if the sole is a light one because it presents a thinbody into which to insert a tack in such position that it will hold, andthe fact that the edge of the sole is covered and hidden by the upper atthe time the tack 1s driven renders it particularly diflieult to drivethe tacks accurately in uniform holding position. For the best resultswhen fastening by tacks, therefore, the projecting edge portion of thesole will be positioned in a definite location for the tack drivingoperation and preferably the projecting edge portion of the sole will beclamped upon its opposite, or tread and top, faces. Conveniently theupper on the top face of the sole will be clamped with said edge portionof the sole, and this may be effected by the tool which shapes the upperinto the angle formed by the side of the last and the projecting edgeportion of the sole. Said tool may be the movable member of the clampand cooperate with a fixed work-rest engaging the tread face of thesole. For performing its functions in the specific procedure hereinillustrated said tool may advantageously be advanced toward the plane ofthe sole yieldingly to permit of variations in the thickness of thestock, and then be forced toward the side of the last to bend thrust ofthe ingoing tack and makes it possible to drive a tack into the edge ofstock which is so flexible, soft or thin that it would crumple or bendduring the tack driving 0 ration if it were not supported.

It will recognized that, in a broad aspect, this invention consists inpositioning an upper over a last and a sole which projects beyond theend of the last, supporting the tread face of the projecting portion ofthe sole, tucking the upper into the angle between the side of the lastand the sole, and clam ing it against the supported portion of t e sole,and fastening the upper while it is tucked into said angle, all assuccessive steps in a continuous operation. The tuckin may be done byrubbing pressure a plie downwardly along the 11 per which 1s to line oneside of the said ang e.

For purpose of explaining this improvement in the methods of makingshoes an apparatus is herein shown which may be employed in practisingthe invention, although it should be understood that the invention isnot limited to use with a particular apparatus or with any ap aratus asit may be practised with the an e or with hand tools. The apparatusshown in the drawings is not herein claimed as it is comrised in thesubject matter of United States tters Patent, No. 1,002,358, grantedSeptember 5, 1911, on application filed by me Se tember 3, 1907 SerialNo. 391,088.

igure 1 shows a shoe in operative position with relation to one form ofdevices by which it may be operated upon. Fi 2 shows the upper grippedand pulled. ig. 3 shows the upper rawn over the edge of the sole. Fig. 4shows a pressirlizg device advanced to engage the upper. 1g. 5 shows thepresser forcln the upper into the angle formed by the si e of the lastand a sole projecting beyond the edge of the last bottom, the upperlining the angleand being in condition to be fastened to the sole. Fig.6 shows the presser holding the upper while the upper is being fastenedby a tack driven through the upper into theedge of the sole.

The apparatus which is illustrated merely for the purpose of aiding mein describing my invention comprises a pair of grippers 2 which areactuated by suitable mechanism for closing to grip the upper, rising topull the upper for conforming it to the contour of the portions of thelast with which it engages, and for overdrawingxthe upper across theedge of the sole and olding it under tension. An abutment or rest 4 isprovided which en gas the tread face of the portion of the so eprojecting beyond the edge of the last bottom and preferably alsoengages the edge face of the sole. A tack block 6 is reciprocated by,-suitable mechanism forwardly and lzvackwardly' in a horizontal.

plane moving from the position shown in ig. 1 to the position shown inFig. 6, in which movement it carries a tack between the driver 8 and theedge of the sole. A presser 10 is mounted for turning and slidinmovement upon a shaft 12, the presser being slotted at 14 for thisurpose. A spring 15 extends from a stu 16 on the presser to a stud 18 onthe tack block and 18 so arranged with relation to the shaft 12 that itholds the presser normally in the raised position shown in Fig. 1 and ures the presser forward toward the shoe. presser, which is shown in theform of an open frame, is provided on its side members with a shoulder20 which the spring 15 holds against the stud 18. The side members ofthe presser are also rovided with inclined or cam faces 22 whic areengaged by the stud 18 durin the forward movement of the tack bloc torock the presser downwardly from the position shown in Fig. 4 to theposition shown in Fig. 5. The driver is connected with suitableactuating mechanism by which it is impelled downwardly for drivin thetack from the tack block into the wor as shown in Fig. 6.

In practisin the method with the aparatus above escribed the work, comrismg a last with an upper and a sole w 'ch projects beyond the edge ofthe last bottom, is resented in the position shown in Fig. 1 wlth thetread face of the sole and the edge of the sole against the rest orabutment 4. The grippers first close upon the upper and pull it tostretch it about the last into conformity with the surfaces of the lastover which the upper is drawn. In this pulling movement the upper ispreferably stretched Without drawing it across the edge of the sole andthe ppers are subseuently given an outwar movement to lay t e upper overthe edge of the sole. The

tack block then advances and as it does so permits the spring 15 toadvance the presser against the upper, which it engages adjacent to theedge of the sole. As the advance movement of the presser is checked byits engagement with the 11 per the tack block moves forwardly witrelation to the presser and, riding over the inclined face 22, rocks thepresser downwardly against the upper, causingbit to force the upper intothe angle formed in Fig. 5. In this downward movement of the presser itpreferably draws the upper from the direction of the grippers to obtainthe stock necessary to extend into said angle. After the presser hasforced the upper into the angle the tack driving mechanism is actuatedto fasten the upper by a tack which is driven through the upper andinto'the edge of the sole, as shown in Fi 6. It is of course, notessential to the b asy the side of the last and the projecting portionof the sole, as shown poet of the invention that the presser have thedescribed movements in causing the u per to line the angle between theside of t e ast and the edg: base of the sole, nor is it essential thatt e upper be fastened first by tacks preparatory to sewing it to the topface of the sole at or close to said angle. In this operation the upperis pulled to cause it to conform to the last as it should do in a lastedshoe, and sufiicient slack is then provided by the operation of thepresser to enable the up r to extend into the an le between the side ofthe last and the so e and line the angle as it must do in the completedshoe in which the upper is secured to the top face of the sole at orclose to said angle. The tacks hold the upper in its correct relation tothe last until in a subsequent operation the upper is permanentlattached to the sole, as for example, by t e usual sewing machine whichforms the upper between the tacks and the last into the angle betweenthe side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, thusreestablishing substantially the tension originally produced by thegrippers, and there sews it to the projectin margin of the sole. Thepresent metho carried out in all the details herein suggested, has theimportant advantage that each portion of the upper is drawn back, afterbeing tensioned, the amount which is necessary to allow it to be formedinto the angle so that each portion of the upper will be permaentlyfastened in the angle by the sewing machine or otherwise undersubstantially its original lasting tension, which can be reestablishedwith certainty by the described procedure.

Having ex lained the nature of this invention and ully described how itmay be practised, I clalm as new and desire to secure by Letters Patentof the United States 1. That improvement in methods of lastingshoesprogressively by repeated cycles of operations on successive portions ofthe shoe, each cycle consisting of tightening a small section of theupper over the last and holding its edge" outwardly therefrom underyieldin tension and unsecured to the sole, then w ile maintainin thetension, drawing back the tightened upper against the yielding tensionto produce slack; and then fastening the edge of the treated portion ofthe upper to the sole.

2. That improvement in methods of making stitch-down shoes whichconsists in first tightening a small section of an upper over a last bypulling its edge away from the last; and, while maintaining thetightened section under tension and free for movement relatively to thesole, drawing back from said edge toward the last enough stock to extendinto and substantially line the angle between the side of the last andthe top face of the projecting mar of the sole; then fastening theupper, as successive ste s in a continuous cycle; and repeat all t esteps of the cycle upon each successive portion of the up er to last theshoe progressively as described.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists intightening a section of an upper over a last carrying on its bottom facea sole which projects beyond the side of the last; and, before fasteningthe upper, subjecting the tightened section to dpressure at the anglebetween the sole an upper to produce, y drawing back the upper from thedirection of pull, the stock needed to extend into and substantiall linethat angle in the completed shoe; an then fastening the upper.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inpositioning an upper over a last carrying on its bottom face a solewhich projects beyond the side of the last; pressing the upper againstthe top face of the projecting portion of the sole to form an outturnedflange; and forcing the upper, by rubbing pressure applied over saidflange, toward the side of the last in a plane agreeing with the planeof said flange.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in pullinan upper over a last carrying a sole whic ro ects beyond the edge of thelast and, whi e holding the upper about the last under tension andbefore fastening it, pressing the upper as an intermediate step againstthe top face of the projecting portion of the sole and against the sideace of the last adjacent to its edge to form an outturned flange of theupper fitted to the last and substantially line the angle between thesole and the last; and

then fastening the upper while it is so pressed into the angle betweenthe said two aces.

6. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inpositioning an upper over a last having a solo projecting beyond theedge of the last; supporting the tread face of the projecting marginalportion of the sole; then beginnin to press the upper against the topface 0 the marginal portion of the sole and extending the area 0pressure progressively from the edge of the sole toward andapproximately to the edge of the last without correspondingly changingthe area of the sole being supported, and securing the upper to themarginal portion of the sole.

7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inpositionin an upper over a last and a sole which pro ects beyond theedge of thelast, supportin the tread face of the projecting portion 0the sole, tuckin the upper into the angle be-i tween the side of thelast and the sole and clamping it against the supported portion of thesole and fastenin the upper while it is tucked into said ang c, all assuccessive steps in a continuous operation.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inrepeating upon successive pgrtions of the upper a 1 cycle of steps w chincludes tensioning the upper outwardly from the last and a soleproecting beyond the edge of the last; then while maintaining theupper'under tension about the last pressing the upper into the anglebetween the side of the ast and the topo face of the projecting marginof the so into the position it is to occupy in the finished shoe; andthen drivin a tack throu filliathe upper into the edge 0 the sole.

9. t improvement in methods of making shoes with uppers having outturnedsole afl-anhinfijflmges which consists in proceeding stepy-step aboutthe shoe by tightening successive sections of the upper over aadditionally forming each section into the le between the side of thelast and a projecting ed of the sole by pressure directedinwar y acrossthe flange toward the last while the tension is maintained todefinesharply the position which the upper is to assume in the finishedshoe, and securing the fll lll fi to the sole.

10. t improvement inmethods of making shoes having uppers with outturnedsole attaching flanges which consists in tensioning the upper over alast 5 then, while the tmsion is maintained, drawing back the upper andpressing it intothe angle formed by the side of the last and theprojecting ed e of the sole; then temporarily securing t e upper to thesole edge; then releasing the presure; then forming the upper into theangle again and in so doin restoring approximately-the original degreeof tension; and sewing or otherwise permanently fastening the upper tothe top face of the sole while'the upper is under substantially theoriginal do of tension.

11. That improvement in methods of making a stitch-down shoe whichconsists in coming and holding a portion of the margin of the upper at apoint beyond the edge of the last, forcing t e upper into the anglebetween the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole toline the said angle with the upper stock, securing the portion so actedupon to the sole, and repeating the operation progressively by seizingand holdmg, forcing into the angle and securing succemve portions of themargin of the upper along the edge of the shoe.

12. That improvement in method of making stitch-down shoes whichconsists in gripping and pulling a portion of upper over the last,reversely moving the edge portion of the upper to produce apredetermined amount of slack between the portion tightlg drawn to thelast and the portion grippe the angle between the side of the last andthe projecting margin of the sole without releasing the tension upon theportion of upper in contact with the side of the last,

and thereafter securing the upper to the.

margin of the sole.

14. That improvement in method of making stitch-down shoes whichconsists in moving portions of the marginal edgeof the upper throughvarying distances which are determined by the elasticity of the upperstock by sub'ecting it to a uniform tensioning force, rawing back fromthe marginal edge suflicient stock to line the walls of the creasebetween the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole, .andsecuring the upper to the sole to maintain the slack produced by thebackdrawing operation.

15. That improvement 1n method of making stitch-down shoes whichconsists in applying a predetermined uniform tension to successiveportions of the upper to ads t it to the configuration of'the adjacentsi e of the last while it is bridged across the crease between the sideof the last and the topface of the projecting mar of the sole, drawingback an amount 0 stock from each tensioned marginal portion of the upperpredetermined by the depth of the crease while the upper is still underthe said uniform tension, and then securing the upper to the projectingmargin of the sole.

16. That impr'ovementinmethods of making shoes which consists inrepeating upon successive portions-of an upper ap lied over a last and asole projecting beyon the edge of a last a full cycle of steps whichinclu e engaging the edge of the upper outside the edge of the lastbottom, forcingfthe upper into the angle to substantially line the anglebetween the side of the last and the projecting edge of the sole,applying clamping pressure to theportion of the upper lining the soleface of said angle, and fastenin the upper to the sole while the upperis he (1 in position to line said angle.

'17. That improvementinmethods of making stitch-down shoes whichconsists in repeating upon successive portions of an upper applied overa last and a sole projecting beyond the edge of a last a full cycle ofshe s which inclu e forcing the upper by e one rub ing pressure apphedagainst face of the angle between the side of the last name to thisspecification in the presence of and the projecging fee; 0}: the soletodforgi two subscribing witnesses.

an out-turned ange o t -e up r an su stantially to line said angle, anthen fasten- ARTHUR BATES 5 ing the upper to the sole while it linessaid Witnesses:

angle. ARTHUR ERNEST Jnmmn,

In testimony whereof I have signed my JOHN RICHARD Lew,

' 1,12o,'e72 v i 5 face of the angle between the side of the last nameto this specification in the presence of .and the projecting face of thesole to form two subscribing witnesses.

an out-turned flange of the upper and S'llba stantially to line saidangle, and then fasten- ARTHUR BATES 5 ing the upper to the sole whileit linesv said Witnesses:

angle. i ARTHUR ERNEST JERRAN,

In testimony whereof I have signed my JOHN RICHARD LAW,

I It is hereby certified that in'Letters Patent No. l,120,672, grantedDecernber i5, Q 19M, upon the application of- Arthur Bates, ofLeicester, England, for an improvement in 7 Methods of Making Shoes,an-error appears in the printed specification requiring correction as'followsrPage 2,.line 27, for the word ha ndle readhanas;

and that the said Letters Patent should be read with thjis correctiontherein that the same rnay conform to the record ofthe case in thePatent Ofiice. I

Signed and sealed this 16th day of February, A. D. 1915.

[smart] M v T. NEWTON,

Correction in Letters Patent No.1 ,120,672.

Acting Commissioner of Patents,

It is hereby certified that inLetters Patent No. 1,120,672, grantedDecember -15,

1914, upon the application of Arthur Bates, of Leicester, England, foran improvement in Methods of Making Shoes, an error appears in theprinted specification requiring correction as follows: Page 2, line 27,for the word handle read bands;

and tbet-the said Letters Patent should be read with this correctiontherein that the same may eonform to the record of the case in thePatent Oflice.

Signed and sealed this 16th day of February, A. D., 1915.

[HEAL] J. T. NEWTON,

Acting Commissioner of Patents,

